Saturday, May 10, 2014

Castle!

I am finally at the Herstmonceaux Castle (also known as the Bader Institute) in England. This will be home for the next two months. My room has a lovely view of the gardens but has an awful wind problem making the windows rattle. I will just sleep with ear plugs in for the next couple weeks. The food so far is awful but that was expected - means I will just hopefully lose weight. Today was actually pretty sunny for a couple of hours. The gym is small but functional.


AFN

Athens, Greece

Athens was a sauntering day. We woke up at 9 am after a late arrival at 2 in the morning to the hotel. Athens charges you double in a cab between the hours of 12-5am. Expensive taxi... We did the Parthenon, Acropolis, Temple of Athena Nike, New Acropolis Museum, Agora, Agora Museum, hiked to the top of the Perithen Temple thing, saw the Olympic Stadium, and walked to the Parliament buildings. Athens is a city you only have to do once. We powered walked at a very slow pace. Athens can be done in six hours for sure in the low season. Nothing was super busy but the Acropolis was filled with small school children. I could describe all that is Athens but nothing is out of the ordinary or spectacular that you could not have seen in a photo. You should see it all for yourself though one day.

However, the more exciting part is that there was car bombings and riots going on in Athens the day we were there. They shut down the Acropolis and the Museum just after we finished eating lunch there. Giant SWAT teams, military, and police surrounded both locations that are directly across from each other. Surprisingly, they did not clear the streets around the locales though. It was a sketchy seedy feeling in the city after this all occurred. They would not tell us what was going on and one SWAT member suggested that we get on the train to the airport before they shut those down and we sure did what we were told to do. You typically do not ignore SWAT instructions lightly.

(Christina and myself with the Acropolis in the background)

Wednesday, May 07, 2014

Santorini, Greece

Our hotel included breakfast so after a late wake up at 1030 to mozy along down to breakfast. Thy have us traditional Greek yoghurt with honey, an apple, some delicious cake, an omelet, and some type of cheese toast thing. I could only bring myself to eat yoghurt, apple, and cake with coffee. Eggs are just not my thing. However, I have fallen in love with taziki. It is amazing over pasta, bread, or even just on a chip. We started Santorini by renting a quad to maneuver ourselves around this island. It is just this little 80cc thing. Nothing special and not fast at all. The speed isn't a bad thing since both Christina and I have a thing for speed and reckless fun in motorized vehicles. It's great to have someone with as much of a lead foot as you to travel with. We drove to Kokkivn (red sand beach) for our first stop. It is a hike and a half down to this dark red beach. It is strange to see red sand in a place like this. It is that red brilliant rock like Kauai but turned into sand mixed with the volcanic black sand. All morning was spent lazing on this beach. The water is too cold to swim. I think it's glacial still. Sunscreen was my new best friend. It was a savior to not be burnt. We then hiked back out of this beach in flip flops to the quad. We then sped along the highway to Perissa. A delicious little hole in the wall called Grandmas Place was lunch. I have never seen such big pita wraps in my life. Amazing local vegetables with chicken and taziki sause. We then meandered down to the black sand beach. It was colder than the morning with the wind but we toughed it out. The next adventure was getting back to Oia, where we are staying. After getting mildly lost, the quad bit the dust. The battery died. We got a local to call the rental company to come get us. After a Greek 5 minutes or a solid half hour, they delivered us  a new quad in the middle of nowhere Santorini. Getting back to the hotel meant nap time. Sun sleeps are the best. We went for dinner at this amazing Italian place with a pelican type name.

The next day we toured around Oia and Fira just to see what they are like. Both are major tourist traps. Not a fan of the cities but the beaches are incredible. Dinner was back at the Pelican place because it was so incredible. I would highly recommend it again.

Tomorrow we are doing a boat tour to the volcano then heading on a late ferry to Athens. Our boat tour took us from the Old Port to the Volcano then to the "hot springs". We did just the three hour tour because we had an evening ferry to Athens to catch. We took the cable car down because our public transport bus from Oia to Fira was late. I shouldn't have been surprised because it is Greece but I was a little shocked. On the road to Fira, the bus driver got so angry at another bus driver that almost scraped our bus and it was priceless. The walk down is a solid half hour and a hike and a half. The tour was interesting I guess. Something to do if you have not seen Hawaii before in my opinion. It takes you to the volcano, which is dormant active. The entire island is black lava rock and random active heat spouts. It smells like sulfur that kind of gave me a headache due to its strength. The view from the top is spectacular though of the entire group of Santorini islands. The boat then took us to the "hot springs" at a balmy 20'C. I personally think jumping into sea water that is 8'C to swim to a grossly dark brown "hot spring" is not sanitary. I did not get off the boat for that excursion nor did Christina. The weather was glorious and warm.

Our ferry was three hours late due to boat maintenance issues. No one informs you of when the ferry is to come nor why it was not there on time until it gets there. We arrived in Athens at 1 am as such.


AFN

Tuesday, May 06, 2014

Kos, Greece

Today was a slow day. We had our last traditional Turkish breakfast - olives, cheese, bread, tomatoe, cucumber, and Nutella. I am glad to be done these heavy bread breakfasts. Off to the ferry we went but the cabby had no clue and way over charged us to get to the ferry port. What can you do when you don't speak the language? We got on our 20 minute ferry to Kos, Greece after passing through the most lax security I have ever gone through for border control.

Kos was tame and pissing rain all morning. We decided to rent bikes and biked around to some beach 15 km away from the main city. It was nice to see a sand beach for once again. We biked a total of 30 km today in the poring rain. Lunch was McDonalds because that's what Christina was craving. We just lazed around all afternoon really until our night ferry to Santorini. I am so ruined out. I can't see any more for a while until Athens. Dinner was Italian because nothing Greek looked appealing today.

Sunday, May 04, 2014

Bodrum... Again

Today was our last day in Turkey. We woke up early at 8 this morning to have an amazing breakfast. For once it was western - fruit, cereal, and toast with Nutella. Instant coffee has grown on me over the last week. Turkish coffee kinda knocks your socks off and is super thick. Turkish tea is quite good but not as caffeinated as I like my drinks. I am so tired of Turkish food. No more kebabs for me for a good couple of months, if ever.

We set off to see tombs carved into the mountains just east of Kas in Cyaneae or Kyaneai in Turkish. All things here have both an English name and a Turkish name. Quite strange that it just isn't all in Turkish. This town was the most important roman town between Myra and Kas. To get to this acropolis was an adventure. It is along a dirt gravel road that is just barely big enough to fit one car. It is four kilometres into the bush basically. It is the only non sign posted place we visited. There is as a sarcophagus carved into the mountain side. We got a little lost trying to find the place by a about a half hour on these terrifying narrow roads. We did not see a single house or car or sign if life he entire time. Slightly concerning. Upon arriving at the actual site we hopped out of the car and started to hike to this monument. About five minutes in to the hike we discovered a fresh dug grave that shouldn't have been there at an official tourist site. Between Christina and I, our spidey senses were just ringing so we decided to turn back to the car - read basically ran back to the car. This just felt super death trap like. It wasn't a tourist destination that was highly traversed. I have never felt so uncomfortable in the silence ever. Sometimes you just have to trust your gut.

The drive from Kas to Bodrum was supposed to be six hours... It took three. I don't think either christina or myself know how to follow a speed limit when there is no expectation to follow it. We stopped for a break in Patara. It is an 18 km beach of white sand for turtle breeding. Given that it was blustering wind we did not stay long. The drive was easy and a lot of fun. Taking hair puns turns at 90km/hour is a riot. You do not have to follow the lanes or even signal. It is like a game to drive. I would recommend a car to do turkey. It makes life so much easier and you can take the off beaten tracks to go see something new.

We made it to Bodrum before dinner time after basically leaving Kas at noon after our little detour to Kyaneai. Returned the car to the airport on fumes. They gave us an empty car so we returned it the way it came to us. Taking public transport, be proud because neither one of us speaks a lick of Turkish, back to Bodrum was actually quite successful. Our public bus driver got us to the centre of Bodrum. We took it pretty easy here - walked around the harbour, had an Italian dinner. And come back to pack our bags for Greece tomorrow!


Final thoughts on Turkey:
- the men are diverse. There are two extremes - the older men who look at you like you should be in the house doing women work and be fully covered up and the younger generation who are creepy in their own manner. They are hilarious and hit on you, follow you around, lulls are the worst pant to wear ever here, and just constantly whistle/cat call. They'd have game though if you were stupid/innocent enough to fall for it. I haven't seen enough women around to comment on it. Not even the younger generations are out to see them.
- I would recommend Turkey. I like the southern trip significantly more than Istanbul but that said, you need to do Istanbul. I am glad that I did this with modestly no fear. Driving was a game and you always had to be on the lookout. Pansyions are incredible for the price and quality you get. We stayed in places with a king and a double with breakfast, wifi, and parking for about $20-30 a per a night. Istanbul seemed stupid expensive for what we got at $55 a night. However, I didn't book that one and it came as a recommendation from a friend who lived in Turkey for exchange. Turkey is diverse and you don't see the same thing really, besides ruins, twice. For a military run country, you do not notice the police or military presence. They love Antaruk - he is everywhere and people even get his signature tattooed on themselves. The flag is about as common as a Starbucks or McDonald's at home. You look and see one everywhere even in the back window of cars.
- the spice bazaar in Istanbul will be my favourite memory of this part of the trip. A lovely gentlemen of vertically challenged stature had us laughing for a good portion of an hour. The photos and putting this into words does not do it justice.
- the nights are not as safe feeling as the days. Nights are downright unsafe to be walking alone as females. Don't do it. We only did once and learned our lesson with the stalking. Daytime feels like the classic walking around any city to be honest.
- waiters constantly bring food to your table that you didn't order then make you pay for it. You just refuse it when it comes and then they don't charge you for it. Not that dinner is expensive, meals cost us about $8-20 a person for an appy and main with water. You won't find much else but Turkish food though. Italian was extremely rare and there are no other options. You could eat cheaper if you had street food but I put my foot down on that front.
- the prayers are timetable. They happened every day in all cities at 5 am, noon, 5 pm, 9 ish pm, and midnight. They occur over loud speaker regardless of the time of day. I will be glad to not hear them when I am in Greece.

Saturday, May 03, 2014

Pumukkale and Antayla and Kas, Turkey

Hello all,

I drove from Ephesus to Pumukkale on a highway similar to the Rodgers Pass for three hours. It is actually quite easy to drive here. They are always shocked and take a double look that you are a woman driver but we have had no issues on that front yet. Speed limits on their super highways are 140 km/hour. I am in love with them. They are perfectly maintained pavement and significantly better than the highways at home. We got a tiny bit lost trying to find the actual site of the baths and ended up in Sarahroy. Surprisingly we got directions out of a man who spoke no English and obviously we speak no more Turkish than thank you. The site are these  water formations that have collected into being these ice blue pools on the side of a hill in the middle of Turkey. Amazing color and should be googled to see photos. There were tons of Asian your buses dropping off heards of them with their cameras. It was a neat natural wonder to see these pools made of some sort of calcite holding crystal blue water that naturally flowed through it. We climbed the two km down and up in bare feet. Ice cream was our reward at the top again. The top is set upon an Heliopolis. Ruins are ruins after a couple of day of them.

The drive from Pumukkale to Antalya was slow. Our only driver to follow the speed limit drove. We had a set of lovely gentlemen in a car pass us on the right then slow down and pass us on the left several times. We eventually figured out they were creeping hard. The men here sure have game but it borders a fine line of creepy. I have never been so stared at blatantly without makeup and basically covered up from head to toe. They are not used to women drivers. Everyone gives a double take. So far we have seen only three women drivers on the roads. Dinner was Burger King because we couldn't find a McDonald and wanted to get on the road.  The scenery reminds me of  Nee Zealand with its lush green forests. The surprising part is seeing hills made of marble and them mining it. The dirt here is red. It is a strange combination to see dark green shrubbery with red dirt.  Three hours later we got to Antayla.



(All above are Efes or Ephesus)


Antayla reminds me of Cabo San Lucas in the wealthy area but Kelowna in the rest. We drove through these minuscule roads to get to our villa. At some points we legitimately had to close the side mirrors to get through. Our villa was a quaint place that included breakfast called the Sabah Villas in Old Town Kaladsi. The old town is surrounded by giant ruins of walls. It was different for sure. Antayla is not flat nor easy to navigate. The next day we set out by public transport bus to Lara beach to spend a day near the ocean. I put on sunscreen but I guess not enough. I got a little burnt. Not as bad as Christina who four days later is still a lobster but still burnt. We had a quick lunch at their version of Tim Hortons because we got lost on our way back from the beach by about an hours walk. A good afternoons siesta was completed by the three of us. It was Christina's birthday so we woke up, got all dolled up in tanks and jeans because dresses felt a little too revealing, and went out for a nice dinner at Paradise. For a yoghurt dip with bread, an entire plate of garlic shrimp, a steak, an entire fish fillet, and dessert it set us back a whopping $65 CAD. Big spenders. Our restaurant overlooked the Harbour. The waiter was super friendly until he got very creepy and asked if he and the chef could come out with us. Obviously, we said we were just going to bed. We started at the Club Alley, an outdoor night club. It started to pour so we left and went to the roadhouse. It appears that I can find a roadhouse in many different locales. The Roadhouse had a Turk pop band playing. It was hilarious that we knew none of the words but still danced our heats out until 3 in the morning. The band and a lot of people found us hilarious. People don't typically dance I guess in Turkey. We cleared some of the tables to dance. I didn't think twice about it. Christina had a great birthday.

Today we woke up late at 9 am to get a move on to Kas. Sierra decided to not come with us to Greece and went on her own way. To each their own. Turkey is not a county that I would be travelling alone without common sense. It's not a country to be super friendly in but she is well travelled so I hope it is okay. People make their own choices. I drove to Kas as Christina was a little out of commission. It was all along the Turquoise Coast with hairpin turns for 2 solid hours. It was a four and a bit drive but we finally got our McDonalds. I have never hit 30km/hour and been scared that it am going too fast. I got a little car sunburnt today from that drive. Upon getting to Kas we found an ocean front restaurant and had brunch. Ice cream is a staple of this trip I've decided. We hiked to the top of the city to see the views of Kas and Greece. One of the Greek islands is only a  10 minute boat ride away I guess. Kas is the dive hub  of the Middle East. It looked amazing but I don't trust the equipment wihthout further research so we just meandered around the city. Saw another ruin theatre. Attempted to find a beach but my idea of a beach and their idea is totally different. Pebbled beaches are not beaches. The water here is a stunning ice blue color with a hint of the color from Kalamellka. Tonight was an early one. We have run constantly for the last week.

I am looking forward to Greece and just relaxing tomorrow. We have a 7 hour drive tomorrow then a ferry to Kos, Greece. It will be good weather hopefully for the drive.


AFN