Tuesday, February 07, 2012

Vang Vieng to Vientiane, Laos 

Yet another early 8 am bus ride. This time we are heading to the capital of Laos. This is also my last Laotion city. One more night of the worst food in the world. The scenery of todays bus ride was Very similar to back country Hawaii. It's all jungle and red dirt roads. Except, Lao roads are bumpy as all hell. Small shanty towns or road stop "stores" appear every once in a while. After this bus ride I will have spent 18 hours on a bus. It was on of the most bumpy rides I have ever been on. Roller coasters are smoother than the ride. 

The one thing about Laos that wasn't apparent was street beggars. I didn't see a single street thingsr. I saw tons of stray dogs but no beggars. For one of the poorest countries in the world you would expect it. Laos only recently, in the last 15 years, started to allow tourists. Everyone drives motorcycles or tuk tuks. Cars were popularish in Louangphrabang but none in Prabang or Vang Vieng. Kids as young as 12 can drive a motorcycle. It's insanity. 

Our first stop was to Joma Cafe. This had traditional American grilled cheese, turkey sandwiches, and milk. Neat little cafe right across from the President of Laos estate. 

Driving through insane traffic we stopped at the COPE center. Cooperative Orthotics and Prosthetics Enterprise is a non profit organization that helps victims of bomb explosions, club foot, and traffic accidents where people have been maimed or limbs missing. Laos was the victim of 260 million bombs being dropped for 9 years as part of the Indo-China war or the secret war. Thats the equivalent of a bomb every 7 minutes for 9 years straight. Over 70 million bombs are unexploded today. Cluster bombs are the most common type but 15 different types of bombs and various versions of each bomb were dropped. For example, I learned about 8 different types of cluster bombs that they know were dropped on Laos. Children are risking their lives for 2000 kip for the scrap metal value from the unexploded Bombies. I tried walking with a modified prosthetic leg and it is incredibly uncomfortable and difficult. Its not something you want to have as part of daily life. The main reason why Laos is the most bombed country in the world is the fact that it borders Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Its lower border is the Ho Chi Min trail and the natural border between Thailand and itself in many points is the Mekong river. I donated a new leg and a new arm for two people plus all of their treatment and surgeries needed. If you feel like reading more about the center check it out at www.copelaos.org 

From that hard hitting visit, we drove to the Arch de Triumph. It's similar to the Paris version but smaller - only 49 m tall. I climbed the 222 stairs to the top and looked at breath taking views of the entire city. Tacky souvenirs are all around the arch. It was unimpressive due to the emotional upheaval of COPE. I'm sure I will appreciate the photos once I am done this trip. 

Another short drive and we arrived at the Golden Stupa. If you've ever seen photos of Laos then you would have seen the monument. It's a shiny gold building surrounded by temples which makes it quite reserved and a place of worship. 

I went for a run down the Mekong river after all of the site seeing for the day. Thailand was at some points only 30 feet away from you. The sunset was stunning - the sun actually was red. 

I'm glad this is my last Lao city. I'm really looking forward to Cambodia and Angkor Wat. 

AFN

Vang Vieng, Laos

This morning I had a 5 am wake up to head out to the old American airstrip. It was pitch black when they were setting up the hot air balloons. Six of us got to be in a basket with a Chinese ex-fighter pilot. We got into the air when the sun was rising. Unbelievable to see the sun come overs the limestone mountains. Th highest we got was 400 m above the city.   They have incredible control over the balloon when the wind isn't super strong. It was neat to go see everything from an aerial view. This is one of the few cities that seemingly was a little wealthier. Houses are not shanty shacks - they have stucco and proper roofs. 

Once we landed, I walked to the Luang Prabang Bakery. I met a couple random guys who were watching the super bowl. So I sat down and watched the super bowl in Laos. Great game. Good food for once too. I had a chocolate croissant and coffee with sweetened condensed milk. Nothing healthy is available to eat. You can't have veggie that aren't steamed, no lettuce period, no fruits, no ice, no tap water washed or cooked items, and the list goes on and on. 

After the Giants won, I had a two hour traditional massage. Glorious strong massage for once. I guess the last Lao massage was improper. It cost me 70,000 kip which is $7.98 Canadian. It is one of the best features of Asia. I've had six massages since I've been on contiki in 11 days. The place local next to the massage studio was a yoga studio. I did an hour of hot yoga. I miss working out and yoga. It was interesting to not understand the instructions and only be able to determine what I should do via others. 

The afternoon was spent on a kayak going down the Nam Song river. I decided to not tube as the risk of dying and being stuck with drunk people wasn't going to be fun. I kayaked 10km down the river. We passed through the tubing area. It didn't seem like my type of fun. From the tubing bars the tour company took the kayakers into this cave on the side of the river. We needed flash lights as literally we crawled into this area. Hands and knees were common to get through the hour long cave exploration. It was awesome to freak others out by grabbing ankles or pretending a spider was on them. The cave was actual a place where'd the Laotion people hid while the bombing were going on during the Vietnam war. Right now it's currently low season and it was still a little tiny. I could only imagine it during monsoon season. To get out of the cave, we had to jump across four feet and climb up the side of a rock formation. If you fell you would have fallen down 30 feet to the bottom. That was terrifying exhilarating at the same time. Oh, did I mention I did all of this is a bathing suit top, beach shorts, and flip flops?

I had dinner at this glorious little organic farm restaurant. It was all fresh veggies and chickens that you got to pick which one to eat from out back. I don't enjoy selecting chickens to kill. I prefer my meat dead not squawking. 

AFN

Louangphrabang to Vang Vieng, Laos

This morning was another 7 am start. All of us boarded a bus to which we get to sit on  it for 4 hours before lunch at the Spectacular Views Rest Stop. Legitimately it's a truckers stop with the stunning views. After lunch, we had another 3 hours on the bus. The drive is 70* angles up and down on a windy one lane road for two way traffic. The seat creak and are leather so you stick to them easily. It's mildly comfortable but is no where near North American standards for buses. The roads are smooth and awesome for about 10 km then it would turn bumpy and shitty for 10 km and rotate the entire ride to Vang Vieng. 

I got a Laos massage which was amazing. It's like a deep sports tissue massage. Thai massages is actually a relaxant massage which I had four times in Thailand. Laos massage are way better in my opinion. Dinner was at a vegetation organic farm restaurant. I had tofu stir fry which was delicious. I've eaten a lot of tofu on this trip due to lack of chicken or apparent weird meats. 

Vang Vieng is the drug capital and backpacking haven of Laos. You literally can get happy or special food and shakes that have magic mushrooms on or in it. It meant that I had to be double as careful as normal. Night time was a whole lot of partying and drug abuse. You could literally do all drugs and drink in public. I really didn't like going out at night. Not my scene, not fun for me to be around drunk and high strangers. Opium is grown locally here as are the rest of the drugs which makes ease of use. 

Tubing is the thing to do in Vang Vieng. There are a dozen odd bars on the Nam Song river. You tube down the river and hop into and out of bars. 31 kids have died in the two years of availability. What do you expect when you add booze, three to fifteen feet of water, flying foxes, and rope swings?

AFN

Friday, February 03, 2012

Louangphrabang, Laos

Travel - Louangphrabang, Laos 

Upon a 6 am start to the day, we boarded the slow boat again. This time we were on the boat for 8 hours. In Laos you are not allowed to wear bikini bottoms so you have to wear shorts and a bathing suit top. Thus, I have a shorts and bathing suit top burn. I'm so red that a bull would charge at me in the streets. It was cloudy out and not that hot is I didn't believe I was going to get burnt. I did apply sun screen twice but the sun is too strong here for my 60 SPF. I also have a shorts tan that sits on the middle of my stomach because I pulled them up half way through to avoid a shorts tan. It didn't work. I'm a lobster with a week left to go of pure Asian sun. 

Half way to Louangphrabang , we stopped at a cave temple. It is literally a temple built into a cave. It has 8000 Buddhist statues in it with another 2000 in the upper caves. It's a stunning view down from the cave. It was found in the 18 century but there are statues dated in the 1600s in the cave. It is monitoredby the people of Louangphrabang each night as part of their civil duty. 

We landed in Louangphrabang on the boat to then hop on bicycles with our luggage and peddle up this hill to our hotel. My suitcase is 41 lbs even with all the shit I've been eating and leaving behind. It was horrific. I didn't realize that a backpack wasn't a suggestion, its almost mandatory. The temple we saw this afternoon was pale in comparison to the Thai temples. It was dingy, small, and being rebuilt at the moment. The city is the headquarters for Buddhist monk training so the town is filled with orange cad men.

As such, the city has a 1030 noise curfew and a midnight people in houses curfew. The police were monitoring the tourists to make sure they followed the rules. If you are arrested in Laos, you need to have family and friends come visit you in jail as food is not provided in Laos jails. In addition, the penalty for missing curfew by a half hour is $500 USD, missing curfew by an hour is the death penalty. It is a serious offense here to brea curfew. The police slash military don't look older than 20 with machine guns and camo wear as we were walking back to the hotel. 

I'm tired of markets and deep fried food. 

AFN

Thailand to Laos

Travel - Chiang Rai, Thailand to Prabang, Laos (Feb 2) 

For a 5 am start time, the bus ride was super quiet to the Thailand-Laos border three hours away. In the last half hour of the ride I learned that:

- Thailand means the Land of the Free
- Thailand is the former Siam 
- First Siamese twins were born in Thailand and discovered by an English trader who then profited from showing them all over the world - 1800s
- There are over 1000 direct descendants exist of the first world known Siamese twins in the USA (Ing and Chang)
- Thailand is 80 million people 

- Laos is 9 million people 
- Laos is the Kingdom if Thousand Elephants
- Laos shares the Mekong river with China, Cambodia and Vietnam 
- Mekong river is the worlds 10th largest river and the 2nd most diverse 
- Laos is the most bombed country in the world in history 
- Over 260 million bombs were dropped between 1975-1985 
- Roughly 70 million bombs are unexploded in the country 
- Cluster bombs are the most common unexplored bombs 
- That means for every person in Laos there is 11 bombs 

We hit the check out point of Thailand bright and early with no issues. You have to check in and out of each of these Asian countries which is a hassle. From that, we all jumped in water taxis to the opposing side of the Mekong river. This river is a natural border between Thailand and Laos for 30 odd km. Once at the Laos border immigration point, chaos hit us. They legitimately changed the entrance forms that morning and policy. So our entire group of 31 had filled out invalid paperwork. The lines were unorganized and no one knew what was going on. After the four hour wait at the Laos check in point, in tuk tuk we drive through the landing spot to our private boat. 

The boat cruise on the Mekong river is stunning. For 7 hours, I saw the most amazing country side and sites in the world. Tanning weather helped the enjoyment factor. A traditional laos lunch was served on the boat. I much prefer Laos food to Thai food. 

The boat stopped in Prabang. I ate shit going up the hill from the river. I mis-stepped and literally slide on my stomach down a 100 m hill in mud. Traditional dinner at a family homewas wonderful drenched in dried mud. I've just showered and it feels fantastic. Mud is horrific to have to sit in. 

This town has a 9 pm curfew, so everyone is in their rooms being quiet and probably sleeping. I need more sleep and better food. Looking forward to Laos. 

AFN 

Chiangmai, Thailand

Travel - Chang Mai, Thailand 

I actually slept a full six and a half hours on the train last night. We arrived in Chang Mai in northern Bangkok at 9 am this morning. Getting off of the train was a process with thirty one 19-35 year olds. Backpacks and suitcases are split 50/50 but the backpackers are doing much better through the travel. The air is much much fresher than in Bangkok and  has a little more evident wealth. I'm not saying like middle class but it's less smog, more organized, working class people in the city. 

The hotel breakfast was amazing. It had actual peanut butter and corn flakes and non-instant coffee. Delicious by Asian standards. After breakfast we all headed to the rooftop pool and gym for a couple of hours. Tanning is hilarious with 70 SPF on. Everyone is burnt but it's not necessarily sunny out due to the smog. It has been about 30+ C all week so far. 

After pool time, the tour headed off to the Tiger Kingdom. I got to play and takeictures with 2-5 month, 5-8 months, and 1-2 year old tigers. they are absolutely adorable. This one was significantly better than the one in Bangkok. Those tigers were under heavy anestetic.  Today's tigers were playful and adventurous. I actually had a 2 year old tiger jump on my lap out of the blue. All 200 pounds of tiger on me was a littler squashy but totally awesome. Newborn cubs had just been born and are adorable. It made me want a tiger so badly. 

This evening was filled by a Thai cooking class. The chef gave us a lesson on how to pick veggies, eggs, rice, sticky v normal rice, and how to pick meat in a market setting. Then he gave us free range over the market to get our own ingredients for tonight's dinner. He was much like Mexican Oscar. Loaded up with our goodies, we headed to a gated neighborhood to this cooking school with professional grade kitchens for each of us. He would tech us how to prepare each course then we would go do then eat that round. I made Pad Thai, Stir fry chicken with cashew, home made ginger sauce, mango sticky rice, and green curry tofu. All from scratch - no prepare anything, all raw ingredients. I have a recipe book for everything I cooked plus a few other authentic Thai foods. I enjoyed the mango rice significantly. The ginger stir fry was delicious. I'm not a Pad Thai or curry person. 

Late tonight, we went to the night markets. It takes the quiet city and turns it rambunctious. A few of us went down to the muay Thai fights. These kids just whail on each other. It poured torrential downpour on everyone. Sopping everything/one was awesome to be wet and hot. Great experience to go see it. 

AFN

More Bangkok

Travel - Bangkok (Jan 30) 

Hey y'all, 

Last night I had a fellow contiki mate knock on my door to ask me to go to the Ping Pong show with the rest of the group. I said yes and off we ventured into Bangkok night life. The show was interesting and horrifying. It's a Thai sex show. Girls stuffed razors, fish, four meter long strings, darts, cigars, blew out candles, and popped ping pong balls out their hoohahs. Good way to understand why Bangkok is the sex trade capital of the world. it's not prevalent at all during the day in the city. At night it's hidden pretty well within the main streets. 

Today we woke up at 7 to do a hotel breakfast then head out to see the Grand Palace. It's a humid rainy day for once. We walked to a public boat which took us to the palace. It's stunning architecture all of which was done by hand. It took them five years to build the palace which is super intricate and gold leaf extravagant. The Emerald Buddha is located within this palace. It's thailands most famous statue. It's honestly not not as impressive as they make it out to be. Its about 4 feet tall in a golden boat which is about 40 feet high and fine detailed. We had a Thai tour guide who spoke English but was hard to understand. The history got lost in translation. 

The palace was followed by a boat tour of the Bangkok canals. Tons of military police boats all down the canal. The river is super muddy and gross brown colored. We fed cat fish bread which was strange entertainment. The boat ride wasn't as pleasant due to the rain. Plus the tour guide sucked at not screaming into the mike. 

The afternoon was sunny and not humid. The humidity is killing me. 100% humidity can go die. I ate at a vegetarian place with Claire, Kim, and Bree. The afternoon was filled with massages and relaxing. Nice way to just be calm and keep on. 

We then took the bus to the train station. We've now boarded the train to Chang Mai which is a 16 hour train ride. The train stops consistently and is rocky and totally uncomfortable. We are only in Nakhon Sawah. It's only 1030 pm here and the train doesn't stop until 8 or 12 tomorrow morning. 

People are starting to join cliques which is going to be interesting. I'm going to try and sleep now. 

AFN 

Bangkok, Thailand

Travel - Bangkok (Jan 29)

The Beijing airport is super boring. The executive lounge for Air China just has drinks and leather couches. It's the largest airport I've been in yet. Terminals are very spaced out and in bad Chinese to English translations for directions. I ended up sleeping the entire plane ride from before landing to landing in Bangkok. 

Last night upon arrival in Bangkok, I walked all the way through the Bangkok airport to baggage claim and immigration. Met a very interesting character in the line for immigration. He came to Thailand to teach kids English for the next four months. Honestly, the program itself sounds amazing but totally not up my alley. He made the journey to Thailad all the way from Iceland. 

Got my luggage and proceeded to lie in bed fully awake for a full three hours before hopping in a taxi at 5 am to go to the Viengtai hotel in Bangkok.  The hotel was a 50 minute drive from the airport. Bangkok is not a pretty city. It's very crammed and short. The hotel that contiki has arranged is in one of the "safe" parts of Bangkok according to my taxi driver. 

This is where my contiki tour started. While attempting to check in, I met up with Bree, Luke, London, Brittany, Cloe, and Justin to go on a day tour to the Tiger Temple and back. The day started out with breakfast at the hotel of cornflakes and coffee. 

The tour first took us to the Kachanaburi War Cemetary which was pretty but honestly boring. Good to stretch the legs out after the hour drive through Bangkok and north. Followed by another hour and a half on the bus to the river Kwai. Stunning views and a neat walk across the bridge and back. You could see cigarette boats running up and down the river. I'd estimate it's double the size of the bow width wise. Then we proceeded to look through a market. I found at flea markets are exactly that all over the world. 

 The tour then took the train to Trankennung. On the ride there, I saw rice fields, red dirt, skinny cows, mountains, tapioca plants, and farmers. The landscape is quite similar to Hawaii but less lush. in addition, we crossed over Death Bridge. Named as such for its extreme heights on wooden stills and how dangerous that section was to build. Breath taking views from below and the sides which photos will be posted later. After the three hour train ride, we stopped on a floating restaurant for lunch. I had steamed chicken, rice, and sprite. Food sucks here. It's all horrible and inedible. 

After lunch, we went to the Tiger Temple which is another hour drive into the bush. I got to pet tigers, play with a cub, take a teen tiger for a walk, and have a tiger decide to sleep on my lap. There are some amazing photos from here. The best is I am petting a tigers head and it decided to yawn but I look petrified that it's moving to do something else. Tigers are adorable as cubs and I'm certain that these tigers were drugged to remain so calm. 

A three and a half hour drive back to Bangkok in a bus resulted in a whole lot of frustration. Traffic in Thailand is insane. No one follows rules of road, uses signal lights, drives in one lane, and seems to forget that the shoulder isn't a lane. Our bus driver almost took out a Civic. While filling up with petrol the bus driver had everyone get off the bus. Fun fact of the day: Thailand is know for buses exploding while filling gas. In the last three months two buses have blown up due to filling with petrol. 

Once we arrived safely back at our hotel, I met up with the rest of the group and went to dinner. I had shakiest and water for dinner. Nothing looked appetizing nor safe for dinner. Everyone seems pretty legit and awesome so far in this trip. There are a couple beauties of people. 

I have proceeded to get in bed early, pack up everything, and pack my overnight bag for tomorrow.

AFN


Beijing travel is horrifying alone

Another update from the Beijing plane. I'm still just as bored out of my mind. I've seen most of Russia's outlands from the plane. Looks like a ad snow day permanently. Currently flying over some part of China. It's very straight cut into neat plot lines of I'm assuming rice fields. There is a magnificent river which the plane has been following for a while. Honestly, there is not a misshaped or non-square plot of land here. 

I've officially been on a plane for 11 hours and 9 minutes. I've seen six movies and read five books and colored. I'm done with travel and my day is only half over. This plane is freezing most because of the winter conditions outside. 

I've now filled out my Chinese landing form and colored from the complimentary coloring book the stewardesses gave me a couple hours ago. Of course all within the lines and perfect complimentary colors. I left the country not my OCD tendencies. 

If anyone is looking for a good movie, watch the movie Abduction with Taylor Lautner. It's entertaining and dynamic. The plot is based on a grown up abducted child who discovers he came from an assassin family. A Dolphin's Tale is cute and adorable but the plot line is iffy at best and based on a true story. Arthur is a very cute movie. The ending is horribly sad but is a feel good film overall. Puss in Boots in no where the awesomeness of Shrek. It was a complete waste of time even on a plane. Drive was okay Ryan Gosling is always a treat to see in a movie. 

AFN 

Vancouver to Beijing

The travels started out with a 530 am wake up. I passed out as soon as I boarded the flight to Vancouver. Slept until the flight attendant woke me up once the plane had landed. I proceeded to go to the executive lounge and sleep for another 3 hours in a chair. My neck is going to kill me for all of this horrendous sleeping positions. In Vancouver they now do calls for boarding and people in English and Chinese. Most of the Air Canada international flights are to Chinese destinations anyways. 

Traveling alone is the worst. No one to talk to on the long flights aka my flight to Beijing, China. I am in roughly hour four of this fifteen and half hour flight. I've watched Footloose and a Dolphin's Tale and read two glorious romance trash novels. I've talked to flight attendants who aren't chatty and to both of my neighbors. I'm running out of this to keep me entertained. 

A girl from my Contiki tour met up with me in Vancouver at 1100 am. Cloe just graduated from UBCO in Kinesiology. She is from Kelowna and has the same flight plan as I do. Van - Beijing - Bangkok. However her Beijing flight left 10 minutes after mine via Air Canada as well. Would have been nice to talk to someone on this god forsaken flight. The next flight Cloe is on my flight which will be nice to not have to be alone through the 6 hour layover then the 5 hour and 23 minute flight. 

Currently, I am flying over Russia which is endless snow for the last hour and a bit. I have yet to see a town or village appear amongst the whiteness. You can see tributaries and rivers that have been drenched in snow in the land. I've decided I want to go see Russia some day. 

I'll update again when I land in Beijing which should be interesting. 

AFN